In October 2000 members of the Athenian Mountaineering Club (AOS) succeeded in reaching one of the highest Himayan peaks, SHISHA PAGMA 8.046 m. Leader of the expedition Kostas Tzivelekas recalls:
 Sunday, October 4
We step on SHISHA PAGMA 8046m. The Korean group make photosò. We embrace them, crying. I unfold our flag: the Olympics 2004 emblem - we had made a promise about that! Round us, many peaks try to get to the sky: Pumori, east, Kailas, west. Down under, the Tibet highlands and the Everest doesn't allow its myth to get destroyed.
The question "why SHISHA?" is not an easy one. We tried once more, in 1994. Konstantinou and myself, and it had left me a bitter taste. It was an unfinished business - and we felt familiar with the region. In general, the level of difficulty was possible to achieve. I am experienced, and I felt pretty sure that, the weather allowing, we will make it. A small and easy-moving group is ideal for our purpose: Kostas Tsivelekas (leader), George Argyris, Kostas Apostolopoulos, Takis Papakonstantinou (trainer and responsible for our athletic preparation); John Pavlidis and Maria Pavlidou participate to the first part of our expedition.
September 3, carrying 1,5 tons of gear. Athens - Islamabah - Lachore - Karaci - Katmandou. We start to feel the taste of adventure in a ruined TATA bus. We are accompanied by Sonam, an old friend from our first 1993 expedition to Everest, and two porters. A trip that lasted 7 hours brings us to the northern borders, at the verge of mountain Lantak. The unsteady weather is the element featuring our departure. The monsoons are a real pain. We maintain a low tempo, which allows us to adapt to the altitude. We walk 6-8 hours daily, making stops to small lodges from stone.
The days of hiking were spent through dense tropical vegetation, always covered by heavy mist. Yiala is a small settlement at 3780 m. We attempt en expedition to the yiala peak 5300m. through a passable path. Our return to Katmandou signals the the departure of John and Maria Pavlidou, the doctor, who had also undertaken with our medical care.
We feel happy to be able to start for our mountain after all. We are accompanied by our friends Sonam and Naska, sherpas for high altitude, and our cook, Biman Tamang. The border village Kontari is our first stop. Next day, after many shifts and unbearable military checks, we enter the Zamko gorge. Nyalam, at the gorge exit, is a typical village of Tibetan architecture at the entrance of the plateau 3750 m. Two days later the goddess of Shisha brings us back to reality. It is the only 8000 m. peak in its entity inside Tibet.
The morena winds normally and after walking for 7 hours we will camp (5300m.). A multi-national community of 9 expedition groups has already camped and each one, on its own, tries to master time. Snow and wind force us to the central tent- restaurant, where we discuss the new adverse conditions.We will move as initially designed, with 3 internediate camps: É 5800m., ÉÉ 6800m., ÉÉÉ 6900m.
With no delays, we move in recognition. At 5800 m. we leave our gear, we organize 2 tents at a óôÞíïõìå äýï áíôßóêçíá óå safe site. A second ascent to 5800 m to carry the gear, and for adaptation. The third expedition, higher to camp II, and ìáò holds some unpleasant surpsrises. We were stuck opposite the frozen side of the northern front. At 6200 m., near camp II, the weather worsening is sudden and startles us. We enmter the seraks. After a while we can distinguish the camp, at the side of the glacier. We entered hastily inside the tents and felt releaved. At our base, the next day, we learn tha the Ukranian group is trapped at 7100 m. at the northern pass due to a sudden and unexpected blast.
One more attempt remains for us. We gradually gain altitude and we will be releaved to let our gear behind, at 6300 m. Tomorrow we will move to 6900 m. Early, wioth cautious movements, we cross the plateau, enter the frozen side. Gradually the gradient increases, our pulse at the verge of anaerobic state. The sun takes long to appear , the temperature is round 23 below nad the peak is still unseen. Seven exhausting hours of walk bring us almost at the end of the saddle, at the base of the northern pass, 6900 m. We will organize 3 more tents at the extended plateau.
It's 1.20 a.m. With uncomfortable moves I crawl to the exit. I have a hard time wearing my boots. I regulate the crampons. We enter the battle in 2 groups (Sonam-Argyris and Naska-Apostolopoulos-myself. The gradient gradually increases. the cold becomes worse and distracting. My toes lose temperature contantly, I feel them frozen. We approach the northern pass 7200 m. The temperature is 34 below. It is 3 in the morning and the temperature is the lowest recorded during our total ascent. My feet are totally frozen, but if I want to reach the top I have to ignore them. When the sun rises, we are almost under the stone obelisk. Our steps, to the known tempo, produces altitude. The gradient decreases and we need an immediate stop. Two chocolates make the round. The altimeter shows us that we are near the end of the road. The last meters to the pre-peak 8013 m. are effected on naked ice. Some more steps and at 10:30 am China timing sharp we step on the highest point of the mountain.
Our steps lead us to the way of return. We enterd hastily in our tents and take care of our feet. The sight I had sometime later is disappointing. My toes are blue. The diagnosis is obvious. Advanced trench feet. Argyris is in a worse state than me. A needed stop at 6300 m, in camp ÉÉ. A tea at camp É is the best thing at this time. An element that increases the quality of our effort is that we did not use complementary oxygen during our ascent. The bells of the mules are heard far away and this signals the transportation of Argyris and myself to base. The Chinese officer is already informed about what happened. He makes a report for their Association, grants us diplomas and a Tibetan tea seals the moment.
In Katmandou our stay in a specialised clinic is considered necessary. My trench feet are in better condition - this means that tehy will go away with time. Argyris's fgeet are in a bad state and doctors are hesitant. If his organism doesn't help and the physiological procedures are not satisfying, he may need to lose his 2 big toes. I don't want to comment on this negative prospect. He personaly has a very realistic consideration of the problem - and he helps us too. |