A climbing revolution is occurring in Argolis, East Pelopponese. The British climber Jim Titt and German Inge Zaczek, live in Porto Heli and they have already equipped with stainless steel bolts more than 200 climbs on excellent limestone.
Most of the routes are single pitch; top quality sport climbs equipped and well organised in 'Kalymnos style'. Bolted correctly without long runouts, placing bolts every 3 metres so that there is no danger. All the names of the routes are written at the start.
Jim Titt realised that the development of Argolis would offer a viable alternative to existing 'sun rock' venues as a holiday destination.
Argolis, located on mainland Greece, offers excellent conditions, even in the summer and easy access. A climbing party could combine it in one trip with other established areas in the Pelopponese, such as Varasova, Patras area, and Lagada in the Taygetos.
Information about Accomondation,Transport and Climbing-Guide: Tel.-Fax: 2754-0-52054, Mobile: 6978-836570
12 to 14 quickdraws for repeating routes. Rope preferably 60 meters of 10 to 11 mm.
|4a - 4c|| 29|
|5a- 5c ||72|
|6a - 6a+ ||39|
|6b- 6b+ ||19|
|6c- 6c+ ||7|
|7a - 7a+ ||3|
|7b- 7b+ ||1|
|7c- 7c+ ||1|
The main crag of Argolis. Excellent access, superb rock, good orientation and magnificent views add up to one of the best sport venues in Greece. Climbs for every level of ability and perfect access to the top for setting up top ropes only add to the plusses.
More a technical climbing area on steep grey walls the development so far has concentrated on the first 250m of cliff (sector summertime) giving around 50 routes in the 4, 5 and 6th grades with potential for about the same number in the higher grades. The next 350-400m of cliff offers an abundance of lines, probably in the 6th and 7th grades and up to 40m long but has yet to be developed.
Turn of the national road Corinth-Kosta at the summit of the pass over Didyma (105km from Corinth) up the narrow tarred road to the summit (10km).
Park 50m before the radiator antennas. The cliff lies below.
1-2 min walk.
1100m above sea level.
All year. In the winter it can be very cold due to the altitude, in high summer it is possible to climb here as sector Summertime lies in the shade after about 2 pm and there is generally a cooling breeze.
Sector Summertime; 8-10 quickdraws. 50m rope. Sector Wintertime will require a longer rope, not yet developed.
Circa 50 fully bolted sport routes, potential for about one hundred more.
1. Little crack -6a+
2. Hole - 6b
3. Jump -6a
4. Little chimney - 4b
5. Little wall -
6. Haggy bear - 5c
7. First arete - 4b
8. First corner - 4c
9. Here comes the weekend - 4c
10. A good crack - 5a
11. Direct - 5a
12. A funny turn - 5a
13. Teen Dream - 5b
14. Bad beer - 5b
15. Drilling in the rain - 5b
16. Trouble - 6a *
17. Fear of goats - 6a *
18. Inge's fingers - 5b+ *
19. Cave - 6b ***
20. Funhouse - 6c (7a+ with the first move direct) ***
21. Funtime -5a
22. Prankster - 6a+ ***
23. Great white way - 6a *
24. Massive Attack - 6c ***
25. New -7b?
26. New -5c+ *
27. Lightning - 5c+*
28. Thunder wall - 5c **
29. Cool move - 6a ***
30. Smile - 5a
31. Thursdays Child - 4b/c
32. James Juant - 6b *
33. Wonderhold - 5c **
34. Girls do it differently - 5b *
35. Slant eyes - 5a
36. Buckshot 7c **
37. Summer Madness - 6c ***
38. Burn - 6a **
39. Jills route - 5c *
40. Sam's Route - 5b**
41. Diversion - 6a+
42. Sidewalk 6b **
43. Black attack - 6c***
44. Tuesday Afternoon -5c+ *
45. Scorpion - 5c
46. Fallen Angel - 6b ***
47. Project - ?
48. England - 6a **
PILLARS OF THE WIND
An interesting rock formation giving the impression that a giant hand has thrust a lump of rock up through the surrounding soil leaving shattered pinnacles and crazily leaning giant boulders. Very reminiscent of a Dartmoor tor except it is made of limestone. A very friendly venue with good access, a good variety of routes and super rock. Easy top rope access. A good family cliff with a number of children/beginners routes in a pleasant setting.
From the coast road Ermioni-Thermissia about 2km from Ermioni take the left turning to Iliokastro (6km). As you enter the village take the right turn to Thermissia (Greek language sign). At the next junction (200m) go straight on and then follow the tarred road as shown on the map. This turns into a dirt road when you turn right after 5km but is passable with care.
650m above sea level.
All year round. The routes are on the East and South sides giving shade or sun as required and shelter from the cold northerly winds in winter.
Below the main cliff are a number of out crops with wildly overhanging south faces with the possibility of some very hard routes.
In the center of the cliff there is a level area, ideal for picnics and with a number of short top-rope problems. Bolt belays above for top roping.
Circa 40,18-30m long. Potential forcirca 100.
1. Independence day - 5b *
2. Direct start - 6b **
3. The fabulous thunderbirds - 5c **
4. Another day - 5b+
5. Left overs - 4b **
6. Do it on Sunday 6b **
7. Zoom - 6b **
8. New -
9. Joyride - 6a
10. Wait I must piss - 5b+
11. Wednesday afternoon - 5a *
12. Swanage days - 5b (only top-rope)
13. Singleton - 5b
14. Guy Fawes - 5c
15. Fire starter - 5b
16. Deviant - 6a+
17. Super-crack - 5c+ ***
18. Warm up - 5b *
19. Einfach - 4a
20. Cold Hand - 5b **
21. The wall - 6a+ ***
22. Warm corner - 5b **
23. Finger-pull - 6a***
24. Direct start - 5c
25. Sunshine arete - 4c
26. Rip off - 3
27. Grosser Bar - 4
28. Kleiner bar - 5b
29. Kindermund - 3
30. Wildwechsel -4c
31. Holzafaller Suppe - 6a ***
32. Pete's route - 5c**
33. Huhner Suppe - 5a
34. Goulash Suppe - 5b
35. Greek thieves - 5a
ROCK OF AGES
A nice little cliff in an idyllic setting and highly recommended for those more interested in their surroundings than pushing up their grades. A small ravine with lush vegetation, good rock and varied climbing give a very pleasant day out.
Highlights include the spectacular and photogenic, overhanging Mr Cool at 5a and the weird Pull of the Sun at 6a+/6b, which climbs up inside the cleft splitting the cliff face. Plenty of potential on this undeveloped rock make it well worth a visit. Good belaying on top for a toprope, take a 60m rope. A short walk up the ravine brings you to another area of cliffs which are as yet untouched.
Drive as for Pillars of the Wind but instead of turning off the tarred road as shown on the sketch map continue straight on the dirt road for about 6,2km until you reach an obvious rocky area on a sharp bend. Park here and walk up into the ravine following a water pipe. 2-3 mins.
500m above sea level.
Probably all year, South/South West facing.
The 7 dwarfs 7-10m
1. Happy - 4b
2. Grumpy - 4c
3. Bashful - 6c
4. Sneezy 6b+
5. Dopy - 7a?
6. Dozy - 6b
7. Doc - 6c?
8. Snow white 5c *
9. Black witch - 6b **
10. Hobbit - 4a
11. Dance with monsters - 6a+ ***
12. Fairy tale -5a **
13. Heave ho - 5b
14. Grab - 6b **
15. Rams arete - 4b (only top -rope)
16. Mr Cool - 5a ***
17. Dreamtime - 5b **
18. Hail 4c
19. Snow-time 4c
20. Simple start - 4c
21. Easy mover - 4b
22. Pull of the sun - 6a+ ***
CAVE OF FRACHTI
An enormous cavern with several large openings 50-100m wide, a third opening is like a mine shaft. Even for non-climbers they are well worth a visit, the excavations are from the discovery of what are thought to be the oldest human remains in Greece. The attractions for climbers are the dry bouldering, the slab climbs out of the last opening, the bizarre climbs under the floor of the cavern and naturally the stupendous roof climbs, 100m on stalactites anyone? Good access and nice beaches including a small one at the entrance.
Signposted road just S of the village of Fourni. Drive 4km to the beach. See map. Follow the marked path along the coast to the cliff 7 mins walk.
30m over sea level.
All year, all weather, as you are underground.
As you enter the cave there are some bolted projects either side, then clamber up the boulders towards the second entrance, here you will find the climbs under the floor of the cave. Further through the cave you will come to a small lake and then the last entrance with the slab climbs. (Last exit sector)
1. Rage against gravity - project
2. Cathedral of Power - Project
3. Stone express -Project
4. Imagination -6a **(top-rope)
5. Rice Krispies - 6a * (top -rope)
6. Thunder & Lightning - 5c (top -rope)
7. Throwaway - 6a (top -rope)
8. Back & foot - 4b (top -rope)
9. Project - ?
Sector LAST EXIT
A superb area with top quality climbs on the slab of the last exit.
10. Red Road - 5b
11. Stone Temple Pilots - 7a+ ***
12. Christmas day at the workhouse -6a ***
13. Magic Way 6a+ (left finish of Xmas day)
14. Wild Frontier 6b ***
15. Mission Impossible 30m (project) ***
You will probably notice there is considerable potential here! This is a mountain 1100 high and the South face is 3-400m high and plenty of rock-faces. Only on one sector developed, the, "Lower Wall". An impressive clean sweep of rock up to 80m high, the far end has easier angled grey slabs giving superb slab/wall routes. The rest of the wall (the majority) is steep red and black rock and looks much harder.
On the national road Corinth-Kosta 8km before the col on Didyma (97km from Corinth) turn left to Karatzas (4km) at sharp right turn by a large marble works. In the village take the second right at a house with some new stone facings and follow the road past the football pitch. At the T junction turn left and continue to Chora (see map). Follow the dirt road (good) as shown to the parking place and walk up through the quarry 8-10mins.
800m over sea level.
Probably 3 season as the cliffs are south facing and could be too hot in high summer.
Routes: This area is still developing. So far only 7, almost unlimited potential.
1. Alptraum 80m V+ (Fr 5b) (VS 4c) 1st SL 30m 5b, 2nd SL 50m 5a/b, trad
2. Early days, Easy ways 40m VI- (Fr 5b/c) (HVS 5a), 1SL, trad
3. Dance with me 65m V+ ** (Fr 5b) (VS 4c) 1st SL 20m -, 2nd SL 25m 3rd SL 20m, trad
4. Scott's Bad Day Out 50m VII- ** (Fr 6a+) (E1 5b/c), trad
5. Black line 50m (Þ 2×25m) V+ *** (Fr 5b) (HVS 4c), trad
6. Little Brown Jugs 44m V (Fr 5b) (VS 4b) 1st SL 22m, 2nd SL 22m, trad
An impressive ravine with a main face over 100m high and other faces along the river bed. Further up on the other side is a large area of rock as yet undeveloped.
The main wall has an impressive overhanging centre section with a large roof running across at half height, pockmarked with holes. On first 'sight this can be somewhat overwhelming but once on the rock turns out to be more amenable as one would expect.
The excellent access (the cliff is 20metres from the road) and good protection from the elements make this area worthy of much more development.
Take the coast road from Ermioni in the direction Thermissia.2km from Ermioni turn left along the signposted road towards the ravine.(2.5km) The tarred road becomes a good dirt road for the last few hundred metres.Park where convenient but do not obstruct the road.
Note; If you are coming from the Didyma area then it is better to take the small road leading east which turns off fche main road a few hundred metres north of the village of Fourni.Follow this to its end and a parking place.Walk through the pleasantly wooded valley along the path to the main wall(10min).
All year the main wall is in the shade after approx. midday in the summer.
The area is still under developing.
1. Savage man o
2. Force war
7. The red empire 125m 6b+ (5c Obl.)
9. Sue's party 110m IV (trad) (4c)
11. Golden brown
13. Hole in the wall
The red empire. 125m 6b+ (5c Obl.)
P1. 35m 6a
P2. 25m 6b+ (5c A0)
P3. 20m A1 (project estimated 8/9th)
P4. 20m 5b.
Sue's party IV.)Trad (Fr 4c) 110m.P.1,2 & 3.25m P.4. 35m
Freestyler V. (Trad) (5b) 75m. 3X25m.
A large imposing cliff overlooking the cast and the village of Thermisia. Closer inspection reveals an even more daunting prospect than a first view would suggest! Big, red, bulging and holdless seems to sum it up, some possibilities in the (much) higher grades if it is feasable to overcome the initial roofs. The only routes to overcome the initial roofs. The only routes so far are on the upper tier. A ruined castle on the top and floodlighting in the summer add to the attraction!
Excellent. Driving from Ermioni towards Poros on the coast road the next village is Thermissia. The cliff lies above you. Take a turning left as you approach the village, just before a sign on the right to Hydras Wave Camping, Follow the tarred road to its end at the castle.
Probably not suitable in the summer as it is S. facing.
Despite the new road, signpost (if you can find it) and the floodlighting the authorities have not seen fit to provide any access paths up to the castle so to gain the upper tier is a bit of an adventure and to gain the top and the castle itself requires some climbing ability. However, a spectacular site and worth the trip.
Routes: Some easier sport routes on the upper tier and possibilities for more, also on the N side under the castle walls. The rest of the potential is obvious after a walk around the S face.
The routes are described in the order of approach.
1. Venetian wall 5b
2. Shadow corner 5c
3. The leading edge 6a+
4. In the red corner. 6a
5. The cutting edge 6b (hard boulder start!)
6. Bombastic 6a
8. New order
9. Captain fantastics insane outing
A new venue specifically developed to satisfy the demands of the swimming and climbing fans! Lying in a very popular bay with excellent bathing the cliff fortunately is a short walk (5mins) along the beach and so is relatively clear of bathers. Naturally this means that climbers of a sensitive nature should beware!!
Super bathing, good access and some good routes. An excellent venue before or after a visit to Naplion which lies nearby.
Vivari lies on the cost road from Porto Heli to Naplion. After leaving Kandia the road follows the coast then climbs upwards to a small ruined hamlet. From here take a left turn to the beach. Park at the end of the beach, clamber over a few stones and walk to the cliff.
All Year. Due to the fortunate angle of the cliffs they lie in shade all day while the beach below is in the sun and climbing is possible even at high summer.
Routes: Route details will be added shortly.
Naflion is a superb old city and is a popular destination for a rest day for visiting climbers. The city offers many attractive old streets and buildings, cafes, restaurants and bars. One of the main points of interest is the Venetian fortress dominating the city, the best preserved of its type in the world. While displaying almost no "Greekishness" the city has played an important role in the history of Greece, being the capital for five years before it was moved to Athens.
The main Square called platia Syntagma (Constitution). The streets approaching it are well lit, closed to automobile traffic and filled with people casually strolling, looking at the jewelry shops, bakeries, tourist shops and the many bars and restaurants.
Situation: Center east of Peloponnessos, close to Argos
How to get there:
Naflion is 148 Km long from Athens. From the auto-route get the direction to Tripoli and turn left at the junction to Argos.
Rocks and climbing:
The development here has been sporadic, most of the routes were put up for climbing demonstrations or for the use by climbing schools. There are currently only a few climbers in the area but we hope that with some encouragement the climbing scene here will take off.
The rock is excellent quality limestone, a bit sharp, and the pitches are equipped with bolts. Almost all the routes are sport climbs, one pitch length. Indeed, apart from the quality, there is also the vast amount of rock available. There are several equally good cliffs completely untouched that are awaiting their first route.
Useful equipment: 12 to 14 quickdraws for route repeating. Rope preferably 60 meters of 10 to 11 mm.
Some nuts (Rocks) on your harness is optional. A lot of possibilities for new routing.
Accommodation - Hotels: Elena (C) tel. 07520-23 217
Dioskouri (C.) tel. 07520-28 550
Xenia Palace (AA) tel.: 07520-28 981
Mr. Snape 6b & 6c
More info: KORFES Mag (Greek only) Íï 85, page. 29, KORFES Mag 106, Page 9, KORFES Mag 126, Page 8.
ACRONAFPLIA AREA (Arvanitia beach)
Orientation: Southeast, in the shade in the afternoon.
Sector Orestis: On the romantic pedestrian zone, 100m long from the Arvanitia beach parking look for the red steep rock with the routes:
1. "klitaimnistra" 25ì. 7a+/7b, (by L. Gianakoulis & H. Mpelogiannis)
2. "Electra" 25ì 6c (by L. Gianakoulis & H. Mpelogiannis)
3. "Orestia" 20ì. 6b (by A. Theodoropoulos & H. Mpelogiannis)
Last years these routes are very slippery due bird nests and soil.
Orientation: Southeast, in the shade in the afternoon.
Sector Apsida: If you still walk in the same direction, you will see the rock arch. Just before is:
1. Charlotte 5c+ 20m (top -rope for the moment)
2. "Apsida" 25ì 5c+ ***
3. Ceiline 6a+ 25m (top -rope for the moment)
Orientation: South-east, on the shade in the afternoon
Sector Panagitsa: Continue walking from "apsida". The routes are down of the small church of Panagitsa.
1. "Slab of Panagitsa" 25ì. 5b *
2. "Peratzada" 25ì. 5b *
3. "Corner of Panagitsa" 25ì 5a **
4. "Glimeno diedro" (clean corner) 25ì 5c+, **
5. "Aigisthos" 15ì 6a+**
Orientation: South, on the shade only early morning.
AREA OF KARATHONA'S BEACH
A bay lying just south of Naplion, long beach, beach bars and a taverna. A popular bathing destination. Originally planned as a holiday resort but the development has been halted.
Access: Excellent. Take the road leading up to the castle (Palamidi) signed in the centre of the town. Instead of turning of to the right to the castle continue along the road to the bay. At the moment there are two cliffs climbed on.
Sector Anatoli (East): Anatoli lies to the east. As you descend into the bay take the first road right.200m to the cliff.
This cliff has potential for about 20 routes total First ascent, Aris Theodoropoulos, Filipos Athanasiou Dimitris Mauropoulos and Antonis Antonopoulos.
1. Alkmini 20m 5c (top -rope for the moment)
2. Antonis 6a ***
3. Amfitrion 25ì 5c ** (plus 10m uninteresting 4c)
Orientation: east, in the shade after 14.00
Sector katakrymeni : The second cliff (Katakrimeni) is at the small chapel about 2/3 around the bay. Take the cement road left to a parking place. 2mins walk.
First ascents of HALCYON DAYS and EASY CORNER by Jim Titt and Inge Zaczek. All others by Aris Theodoropoulos, Danae Acgiropoulou, Tasos Petrochilos
Dimitri Stathakos and Angela Papadimitropoulou.
Ail routes 25m or less. Good bolts and ring lower offs. The names are painted at the start.
1. New 6a+ (it needs 1-2 more bolts)
2. Tasos (corner) 25ì 5c+ (it needs 1-2 more bolts & belay station)
3. Unamed 5c
4. Gallida (woman from France) 25ì 7b? (It needs re-equipping and 1-2 more bolts)
5. Halcyon days 5a
6. Easy corner 4c
7. Iokaste 15ì 4b (top -rope for the moment)
8. Ismine 15ì 4b (top -rope for the moment)
9. Ramon 15ì 5b (top -rope for the moment)
10. Elpinor 20ì 5c ***
11. Kihle 20ì 5b **
12. Antigone 20ì 6a**
13. Octana 20ì 6b**
14. Agamenon 25ì 6a+ ***
15. Tirintha 20ì 5b+ **
Orientation: Northwest, Routes 3-11 in the shade in the morning till 14.00.
Sector Neraki Bay: A superb venue! A small bay lying halfway between the previous described Karathona Bay and Naplion.
Park at the eastern end of Karathona Bay and follow the coast pedestrian zone for about 15mins walk. You will come to a small bay and then an obvious 50m rock wall.
Some routes have been climbed here previously but no information is available.
We have climbed 4 routes here leading up to I an obvious hole. Described from L to R facing the cliff.
1. Mr. Snape 1st pitch 6b 30m, 2nd pitch 6c 30m. (by Aris Theodoropoulos)
2. Orangutan 6a+ (by Jim Titt and Inge Zaczek)
Variation a. Chimp 6 a
Variation b. Ape 6 a
3. Lemur 6a (no bolts for the moment)