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12. North Cape
A big south face. Possibilities for new routes.
| Equipped
by: |
A. di Bari &
A. Gallo team for the most of the routes. Karsten Oelze No 9, 10. |
 |
| Sun: |
After 11.00, south.
|
| Access: |
You park as for
Odyssey. When you reach the flat road, you go left and head for the characteristic
grey slabs over difficult ground towards the left cave. Also approachable from
the curve of the road in the level of "Casteli". 10-15 min walking to
the cliff. |
13. Kasteli
Right next to the sea, steep and sharp slabs with
many possibilities from 4a to 6a. On the west side of a conical hill above the
sea, on which you find the ruined Byzantine castle of Kasteli.
| Equipped
by: |
P. Reinih. T.
Scliffe, J. Thielke, M. Thiclestoolb.(No 1 & No 3 from M. Schmed & team
May 2000). |
| Sun: |
after 14.00 Northwest.
|
| Access: |
Drive from Masouri
to Arginonta, after crossing sector "Odyssey" and see the ruins of the
castle, follow the right slope of the hill. 5-6 min walking to the cliff. |
14. Grey Zone
A characteristic compact grey slab with good rock.
| Equipped
by: |
Markus Wiessnfarth,
Stefan Piskurele 10/1999 |
| Sun: |
After 12.30, Southwest.
|
| Access: |
100m after the
last houses of Arginonta, you enter the gorge on the right with the grey rocks,
and then leave on the right. Red marks show the way. 5 min walking to the cliff.
|
15. Helvetia
A new hard field with amazing holes and rifles.
| Equipped
by: |
|
| Sun: |
After 11.30, South.
|
| Access: |
Right and above
to Arche. 5-6 min more walking. Also approachable from Grey Zone. No signs at
both. |
16. Arche (Start)
An amazing field. In the center there is a vast
rifle with some lines on it for the opening of extremely difficult pitches. Right
now there are pitches on rifles with less overhang and slabs. Many routes on slabs,
with difficulty 5a to 6a. Three beautiful routes with difficulty 6b/6b+. Height
difference of 15 to 25 metres with small approach.
A few routes are secured in a curious way. Safety
depends on the height of your shoe as you are in a difficult movement. There was
probably no pre-planning, and the bolts were placed at roughly 3 or 4 metre intervals.
| Equipped
by: |
A. di Bari &
A. Gallo team for the most of the routes. |



|
| Sun: |
after 11.30, South.
|
| Access: |
You pass the last
houses of Arginonta where the road begins to climb. After 500 metres you reach
a bridge above a dry stream. You park immediately after the bridge and follow
the path towards the pitches. They are near the yellow rifle that can be seen
from afar. 6-8 min walking to the cliff. |
17. Noufaro
A new sector, to the left of "Arhe".
A red wall in front & a grey slab to the left.
| Equipped
by: |
Thomas Scmih &
Zuncl 10/1999 |
| Sun: |
after 13.00 South.
|
| Access: |
200m behind sector
"Arhe" you will find red signs on the road and on the path. 4-5 min
walking to the cliff. You will meet first "Tango". 100m left of "Tango"
you will find six more routes on a grey slab. |
18. Galatiani
(Calkite Cave)
A large cliff-face after Noufaro. The beginning
of a new route of five pitches.
| Equipped
by: |
|
| Sun: |
after 13.00 South.
|
| Access: |
450m
after sector "Arhe"(70m before The Ghost Kitchen) walking
uphill. No Path, no signs. 30 min walking to the cliff. |
19. Cave
A Cave close to the road. On the left of the routes
there is another nice and deep cave with a door in front.
| Equipped
by: |
|
| Sun: |
after 13.00 South.
|
| Access: |
500m behind sector
"Arhe" you will find yellow signs on the road and on the path. 4-5 min
walking to the cliff. |
20. The Seaside
Kitchen
An amazing rifle on each side of medium difficulty
slabs. A beautiful grey slab to the right with "Zyklop".
| Equipped
by: |
Kaspar Ochner,
H.P. Bartens, Klans Hildenbrand. |
 |
| Sun: |
after 16.00 for
Zyklop, Southwest facing. After 13.00 for Totenhansel, South facing. |
| Access: |
2,3 Km after Arginonta,.
20 min walking to the cliff. |
21. Palace
A rock arch gives a special note to the landscape.
A relatively limited area of average quality rock but with amazing formations.
The rock overhangs with rifles and holes. A fine place for novel photographs.
| Equipped
by: |
Marcel Schmed &
team 4/1999 |
 |
| Sun: |
after 12.30 South.
|
| Access: |
It is at the north
end of the island. You turn right after Skalia onto a road under construction
and after 300 metres you turn left onto a track for 150 metres. You park in front
of the door for the wicket for the goats. Unlock the door, pass through and close
it back. Follow the red marks on the path, from the olive tree, for about 3-5
min. |
22. Baby House
A completely new field, to the left of Palace,
with the same access. Interesting sector on red rock with holes and athletic steep
routes.
| Equipped
by: |
No 1 from M.Schmed
& team May 2000 |
| Sun: |
after 12.30 South.
|
| Access: |
With the palace
on your left, continue along a level path for 50m. |
23. Kreissaal/Maternity
Clinic (Emborios)
A new field on a grey slab, above the upper houses
of the village of Emporios. Sharp grey rock with horizontal steps. At present,
three pitches of about 6a. Worth a visit to the ancient castle "Kastri".
| Equipped
by: |
Marcel Schmed &
team May 1999 |
| Sun: |
after 12.30 South.
|
| Access: |
From the curve
of the road in the entrance of the village Emporios follow the right flank of
the valley till the cliffs and the ancient wall and then turn left to the grey
slab, left of the big cave. In total 20 min. No signs. |
24. Saint Constantine,
Telendos
New field on the small and remote island
of Telendos, opposite Myrties village. Very sharp grey and red rock. At present,
three equipped pitches. Also worth visiting the small old monastery and the ancient
castle. The routes are on the wall down from the Monastery and the flag. Good
as an afternoon option after swimming at Telendos beaches.
| Equipped
by: |
A. Theodoropoulos
& Th. Mihailides June 2000 |
| Sun: |
in the morning.
In shade after 14.00. East face. |
| Access: |
From Telendos
port follow a good path, parallel to the sea, to the north with signs for the
monastery. In total 1 hour from the port. Another option is to hire a boat for
the dock beneath the monastery. 20 minutes from the dock. |
Please, contact us for new routes
or comments:
|