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Sectors 1-11 < Click to see Sectors 12-24
12. North Cape

A big south face. Possibilities for new routes.

Equipped by: A. di Bari & A. Gallo team for the most of the routes. Karsten Oelze No 9, 10.
Sun: After 11.00, south.
Access: You park as for Odyssey. When you reach the flat road, you go left and head for the characteristic grey slabs over difficult ground towards the left cave. Also approachable from the curve of the road in the level of "Casteli". 10-15 min walking to the cliff.
13. Kasteli

Right next to the sea, steep and sharp slabs with many possibilities from 4a to 6a. On the west side of a conical hill above the sea, on which you find the ruined Byzantine castle of Kasteli.

Equipped by: P. Reinih. T. Scliffe, J. Thielke, M. Thiclestoolb.(No 1 & No 3 from M. Schmed & team May 2000).
Sun: after 14.00 Northwest.
Access: Drive from Masouri to Arginonta, after crossing sector "Odyssey" and see the ruins of the castle, follow the right slope of the hill. 5-6 min walking to the cliff.
14. Grey Zone

A characteristic compact grey slab with good rock.

Equipped by: Markus Wiessnfarth, Stefan Piskurele 10/1999
Sun: After 12.30, Southwest.
Access: 100m after the last houses of Arginonta, you enter the gorge on the right with the grey rocks, and then leave on the right. Red marks show the way. 5 min walking to the cliff.
15. Helvetia

A new hard field with amazing holes and rifles.

Equipped by:
Sun: After 11.30, South.
Access: Right and above to Arche. 5-6 min more walking. Also approachable from Grey Zone. No signs at both.
16. Arche (Start)

An amazing field. In the center there is a vast rifle with some lines on it for the opening of extremely difficult pitches. Right now there are pitches on rifles with less overhang and slabs. Many routes on slabs, with difficulty 5a to 6a. Three beautiful routes with difficulty 6b/6b+. Height difference of 15 to 25 metres with small approach.

A few routes are secured in a curious way. Safety depends on the height of your shoe as you are in a difficult movement. There was probably no pre-planning, and the bolts were placed at roughly 3 or 4 metre intervals.

Equipped by: A. di Bari & A. Gallo team for the most of the routes.

Sun: after 11.30, South.
Access: You pass the last houses of Arginonta where the road begins to climb. After 500 metres you reach a bridge above a dry stream. You park immediately after the bridge and follow the path towards the pitches. They are near the yellow rifle that can be seen from afar. 6-8 min walking to the cliff.
17. Noufaro

A new sector, to the left of "Arhe". A red wall in front & a grey slab to the left.

Equipped by: Thomas Scmih & Zuncl 10/1999
Sun: after 13.00 South.
Access: 200m behind sector "Arhe" you will find red signs on the road and on the path. 4-5 min walking to the cliff. You will meet first "Tango". 100m left of "Tango" you will find six more routes on a grey slab.
18. Galatiani (Calkite Cave)

A large cliff-face after Noufaro. The beginning of a new route of five pitches.

Equipped by:
Sun: after 13.00 South.
Access: 450m after sector "Arhe"(70m before The Ghost Kitchen) walking uphill. No Path, no signs. 30 min walking to the cliff.
19. Cave

A Cave close to the road. On the left of the routes there is another nice and deep cave with a door in front.

Equipped by:
Sun: after 13.00 South.
Access: 500m behind sector "Arhe" you will find yellow signs on the road and on the path. 4-5 min walking to the cliff.
20. The Seaside Kitchen

An amazing rifle on each side of medium difficulty slabs. A beautiful grey slab to the right with "Zyklop".

Equipped by: Kaspar Ochner, H.P. Bartens, Klans Hildenbrand.
Sun: after 16.00 for Zyklop, Southwest facing. After 13.00 for Totenhansel, South facing.
Access: 2,3 Km after Arginonta,. 20 min walking to the cliff.
21. Palace

A rock arch gives a special note to the landscape. A relatively limited area of average quality rock but with amazing formations. The rock overhangs with rifles and holes. A fine place for novel photographs.

Equipped by: Marcel Schmed & team 4/1999
Sun: after 12.30 South.
Access: It is at the north end of the island. You turn right after Skalia onto a road under construction and after 300 metres you turn left onto a track for 150 metres. You park in front of the door for the wicket for the goats. Unlock the door, pass through and close it back. Follow the red marks on the path, from the olive tree, for about 3-5 min.
22. Baby House

A completely new field, to the left of Palace, with the same access. Interesting sector on red rock with holes and athletic steep routes.

Equipped by: No 1 from M.Schmed & team May 2000
Sun: after 12.30 South.
Access: With the palace on your left, continue along a level path for 50m.
23. Kreissaal/Maternity Clinic (Emborios)

A new field on a grey slab, above the upper houses of the village of Emporios. Sharp grey rock with horizontal steps. At present, three pitches of about 6a. Worth a visit to the ancient castle "Kastri".

Equipped by: Marcel Schmed & team May 1999
Sun: after 12.30 South.
Access: From the curve of the road in the entrance of the village Emporios follow the right flank of the valley till the cliffs and the ancient wall and then turn left to the grey slab, left of the big cave. In total 20 min. No signs.
24. Saint Constantine, Telendos

New field on the small and remote island of Telendos, opposite Myrties village. Very sharp grey and red rock. At present, three equipped pitches. Also worth visiting the small old monastery and the ancient castle. The routes are on the wall down from the Monastery and the flag. Good as an afternoon option after swimming at Telendos beaches.

Equipped by: A. Theodoropoulos & Th. Mihailides June 2000
Sun: in the morning. In shade after 14.00. East face.
Access: From Telendos port follow a good path, parallel to the sea, to the north with signs for the monastery. In total 1 hour from the port. Another option is to hire a boat for the dock beneath the monastery. 20 minutes from the dock.

 

Please, contact us for new routes or comments:

Aris Theodoropoulos Municipal Athletic Organization

E-mail aritheo@otenet.gr
Fax. +30 1 2469777
URLs:
www.oreivatein.com
www.forthnet.gr/eosa/

Tel. : +30 243 51601

Email:MAO@kalymnos.klm.forthnet.gr

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